How to Install Your Own Kitchen – Part 5 – Installing Worktops & Countertops

Well, the wall systems are up, the base units are fitted and also you’re most likely stood there, tools ready and chomping at the little bit to fit your brand-new worktops. You can currently shout back into the living-room, “We’ll see that’s bloody pointless”. Then throughout the day, throw in a number of those old DIY-disaster favourites; “Rome wasn’t constructed in a day y’ know” and also “when you’re a perfectionist it takes a bit longer than normal”.

It’s additionally valuable to include a number of technical terms that no person else will recognize yet will make you look good – as in “The wall surface contours are misaligned but I can navigate that”. These might have the desired result as well as enable you to reclaim some form of regard from your family – in either case you have my compassions as well as I wish that by reviewing this following post your problems will quickly be over.

The tools to utilize

Worktops are readily available in a selection of materials however, for this post I will be concentrating on the setup of laminate tops as they are the most widely used. For materials such as, granite, corian and also stainless steel that are fitted by experts, this will certainly be a valuable referral, as templating is required for them all and also many of the rules for the fitting of laminate tops will be proper.

Here are the tools you will require for the installment of laminate tops


  • jigsaw
  • Round saw
  • Aircraft or Electric planer
  • Combination Square
  • 2 Saw Equines
  • Clamps
  • Worktop Theme (for Mitres).
  • 1/2 inch Router and straight blade.
  • Concealing Tape 50mm wide.
  • Silicone Sealant of an ideal suit colour.
  • 10mm spanner.
  • Worktop screws.
  • File.
  • Varnish or PVA Adhesive (for cut-outs).
  • Tape.
  • Pencil.
  • Compass.
  • Tin of call adhesive.
  • Protective wear (goggles, dirt mask etc.).

Measure up!

It is very important to maintain an also overhang from the leading edge of the cupboards and also this is the target to go for in the right fitting of all worktops. As an example, a 600mm worktop should overhang a 560mm cabinet by 40mm. It may not constantly be possible to achieve perfection in this respect as well as + or – 5mm serves. For the function of this article I will presume a three-sided application that requires two worktop joints is required.

Decide first which method the joints ought to run. Remember at this stage to stay clear of joint distance to a sink any place possible. Each worktop must be reduced 50mm oversize and, when taking into consideration the 20mm overhang needed at the end of the cupboards, you need to add 70mm to total cabinet length.

Guaranteeing an even overhang.

Next task is to scribe the worktop to fit the altitude to which it is to be mounted. You should initially scribe the depth (front to back) if fitted up versus a wall surface. Remember first to examine you have an also overhang along its size and if at this stage if the overhang is greater than what is called for because of unevenness along the wall surface length, don’t worry, this will be handled next.

To scribe the worktop, I find that a compass provides the most effective results, particularly the older kind steel one with a lengthy unhampered point. You kitchen worktops manchester might buy them at an excellent stationers but I find they are best gotten from your kids’s pencil situation. Concealing tape will confirm indispensable if your worktop is a dark colour but I use it each time currently no matter the shade as I locate that when reducing along a pencil line used straight to the job top, the sawdust produced by the jigsaw tends to remove the line.

So the worktop is in location with an even overhang and also you have actually applied masking tape along the deepness to be scribed. You should currently open the compasses pencil and also point to match the widest gap between the worktop as well as wall surface. Transfer this to the worktop by running the compass along the wall maintaining it parallel therefore leaving a pencil line on the concealing tape. You are currently entrusted the shape of the wall moved to the worktop and this ought to be cut with a jigsaw unless it is so marginal that an aircraft will be enough.

Certainly all the above can be ignored if your walls are relatively straight and flush but in my experience this is a rarity and also your own judgement will inform you whether the void left is acceptable or otherwise. My own yardstick for a wall surface to worktop maximum void would be no more than 3mm.